daylight

Lume shots in the bright room is an immense obsession I have.



Busy tired week. But always time for watching watches.

Beauté

Things hanging on our wrists that all guys strive for.

Sexy lume

Just so happen to snap a lume shot and found it at 10:10 position.

Speaking of sexy...
an angel trying out a knitted top

local cuisine

It's rare to have locals dipping into watchmaking and selling watches of such specific tastes. I love local entrepreneurship that services niche markets of my interests and hobby.

This is not a review as there is no product per se, as such, the post is abit disorganised. Its just a noticing of a watch company.

enter Gruppo Gamma.

This is a watch company, microbrand I suppose they are, that makes homages of Panerai's radiomir 1940 or the crownguard-less 1950 luminors. Gruppo Gamma is the top secret italian naval divers that originally used early Panerai models. It meant frogman group or something, this name is a love or hate, but I think it is a good conversation topic.

When other watch forums were discussing this watch, the immediate response is that, the name is stupid to pronounce. Until someone came along and explained the meaning of gruppo gamma then people started to accept it. How shallow is that? Its like dangling any fried food in front of children is useless without mentioning the word "Macdonald".

Come about
Panerai Radiomir 1940. from web

The company makes homage watches of 1940s Radiomir as seen above. They have some good features which I will get to, but the thing about them that impresses me the most is their interaction with people, their passion which can be felt in the way their product is delivered. One thing I learnt in during school days as my lecturer explained the main reason for apple's success. Its not the functions and the features nor is it the looks and material and what not. Apple is not selling the product, it simply makes you believe in what they believe, the product is merely the medium.

Looking at Gruppo Gamma, it makes me feel that, the company, started because a bunch of people says, "hey, surely, there will be alot of people who wants to buy this watch. Lets fulfill their wishes." And the affordability is just the cherry on top of the whip cream. 

This seems like their MO: providing a modern interpretation of a historically legendary time piece for people who love such watches.

Their company sticks to certain things they say, the respect exclusivity and promises to customers. Their customer service seems to be top notched, not afraid of complains made public as they stand by their products.

That is belief.

Watch
Their watches for now comes in 2 types of case materials: Stainless steel (Genesis) and Brass (Ascent). 
Their standard offering Genesis model. Their debut model is G-0. 
G-0 will never ever ever be in production again

It is the base model of which all of its other offerings will pivot against. Now the G-0 is not available anymore, it's launched with only 10 pieces and that's that. 

Now the current models being offered or temporarily ceasing production for newer models.

Features the watch has in common
44mm Cushion case (Genesis 316 S Steel, Ascent Brass)
Brevet etched crown
Brevettato signed edge and see-thru case back, some models are serialised
Domed mineral crystal
Sandwich dial be it cali dial or normal dial
Seagull movement (auto has date)
Matching finished buckles with brand

There is many more tiny tweaks made that sets them apart from regular homages. I, being a owner of 2 homages, I feel that the cases these guys (Getat and Jackson) use, is from a similar source, there is no tweaks or what to the case, they look and feel almost the same.

Here's what sets GG apart, they made tiny unnoticeable changes to improve the ergonomics of the watch, a higher positioned crown to avoid it digging into the wrist, small stealthy date windows on automatic function as opposed to other watch brands using cyclops to enlarge. The curvature of the lug and the size is more palatable to the general population.

They offer brass watches under the ascent line up, which is good at least they do not pass up brass as bronze unlike some manufacturers outside. But from what I gather, probably due to it's freshness, it isn't picking up yet. For me, bronze is not my thing. I think that it is too malleable a material that would react very well against knocks and bumps and lastly, I do not see what the fuss is all the patina thing about, I for one, do not like to touch oxidised metals.

Packaging
Each watch comes with a pouch that is seemingly useful.

Straps
Another cool feature that I like you can choose from several high quality straps such as this one in Tan colour, this watch fits 24mm straps.
Also available in brown and black too.

They have a collaboration with other strap maker, 74 watch strap, as their premium strap offering, so if you get the watch you can spend abit more to get the premium strap and it will be cheaper than getting one seperately. Straps seems really nice in my opionion and not that particularly expensive when we have people peddling straps around S$150 - S$200 (not dissing their quality, its price not for everyone).
"stagionato 74"

The highest end strap offered, looks really nice and has the good aging of leather without the wear marks, which is think is stupid when you buy anything with worn marks as you are going to have 2 marks, a fake one and your actual worn mark.

Nonetheless, part of the owning experience is the endless possibility of strap options. These bad boys will be leashed on with plenty of leathery goodness.

Lume
Another draw factor to this watch is the lume. Each of the models will have either C1 or C3 lume, gold hands will have C1 lume and silver hands will have C3 lume.

Lume, to me, is part of the quality assurance of the watch, a watch with good lume usually has the better QC. I kinda read time in the dark, so it is important and part of the heritage as lume is one of the main key features tool watches have over dress watch.

G-5
Currently aiming this model
G-5

The G-5 is special because this is has 'the next step' thinking, as with most of their designs. Its Iron Man's extremis or bleeding edge armour equivalent. It retains classic stuff like the polished case, something which I've been wanting to own, a polished steel case instead of a brushed one. Looks aside, it is powered by an automatic movement and a date window.

One thing I like about what they have to say in their journal about their micro sized date window.

"We designed the G-5 for people who use the date function only occasionally. 

In other words, if we're looking for a watch that tells the date when it really has to but otherwise is stylishly discreet about its date function, the G-5 is THE WATCH to have. "

Whilst other are complaining about the date being there or too small, they decided to go ahead and do both. I feel that its a bold move, but it seems to come up looking good and the explanation is very valid, at least for me. I have never tried it before as no one has done it or have I seen it in that manner. I am willing to try it out and it might work.

The new batch of G-5 will also be serialised individually, which 50 years down the road, the unserialised ones maybe very expensive as they are the pioneer batch.

The current delivery date for G-5 is Nov, so when I get the watch, will give it a review, and if things are good, why not get their genesis II series? G-2 looks good. Gold hands.




Wet and sand

Wet and sand accurately describes my weekend in Tioman. I was taking up my open water divers class. 

I was not very willing to risk loosing a watch in the sea, so I decided to bring along my casio MDV106 instead of the Seiko Monster. Will do so next time I promise.

Didn't have any underwater camera with me so didn't capture any underwater shots.


The scenic place. Overseas everything just looks nicer. 







All these picts above are taken using S3 and unedited. 

This reminds me of the part in Wall-E with the plant in the boot.


Trying to capture scenery...looks better in a phone.

Edited some picts on the butt aching journey home.
 Look at me, I'm so deep.

 Me-ow

Serenity

Lucky I managed to take my watches out for a pict.

And after a quick edit to bring out the watch desperately.


As my best friend says, I should really get a camera. 

this morning


Blue lume of chills

chunkies

Should be sleeping but this..

In my life, I do like my things thick and chunky sometimes. Call it over compensating or what, but I feel that somethings do need to have a bit of a mass to feel good.

I play the guitar for instance, I'm not clapton who can produce massive sounds or what, neither do I have a discerning ear. I do, however, very much have always love the sound of a les paul. My heroes play them and it called out to me. I always go to other guitars but the les paul always comes back.

Something about the thick body and tone.
Something.

Yet its also all in the fine touches.

Recently, gonna have to halt my watch buying activities. Not a penguin here, I do not flip stuff, I buy them to keep them. As when I started, I still have a liking towards thicker watches. My first thick watch is the Fortis Spacematic.

I find that thicker watches elevates the timepiece and brings it to life on my bony wrists.

Now, today, even in my love for diving watches mostly, I still prefer thicker watches. I also bodes case integrity.

I love the pam, we all know, also I have come to like very much, the thickness of my Seiko Black monster. But because of the shroud, it kinda makes the bottom to top tapers abit making it look a little like a bell or oris divers if u will.

Wearing the watch, face the crystal to the sky and look at it with your eyes level to the bottom lug and both lug horns pointing back at you (puck users imagine there is a lug horn), if it looks like this (_____) or
 this /_____\, then your watch is actually thicker than it looks in most cases (no puns intended)

Curves and caseback to crystal tapers soften the height of the watch. Yet the reverse tapers looks weird so what we want is a parallel sides, maybe the bezel edge jutting out, all the better.

My point, I will be looking out for thick divers for my next purchase and show also some "thick" watches around.

Rolex deep sea dweller
28.5mm thick

Actually, I would think that every model of rolex is actually one of the highest spec-ed out model of its time of introduction and it stays that way for decades. Imagine someone in the mid 50s blogging about submariners.

I know this watch has a history from a long time ago, but this is quite modern I must say. I wears thick and is not the subtle-est of watches. Thick watches from rolex do require fat stacks tho. give or take S$11,500.00.
Panerai Submersible 24C
13mm thick

What's this without a panerai? Pam 24c. This would probably be the only modern luminor casing pam I like, because it is polished steel instead of brushed metal. it gives the very vintage feel and it has a unidirectional bezel. Yay. Nuff said. SGD 9,800.00....nuff dreaming.

Orient Star Saturation Diver 300M
16.6mm thick

This watch is also a pretty one. Orient saturation diver or OS300. OS stands for Orient Star. This is orient's answer to the line of prospex Seiko divers. What people love is retained and what people hate is gone. This watch wins in a lume contest with the flagship Seiko MM300 at a bit more than half the price of a second hand MM300. The watch bezel has huge fonts, maxi-dial style with a cool power reserve. The one thing people love the most? It sports a thick-ass sapphire crystal, hardlex on a MM300, not that I mattered to me, touch wood.

The machining on the watch is good but many have commented that watch case finish wise, Seiko leaves Orient behind, but not far back.

The bracelet also sports a similar divers extension as the MM300 and deep sea dweller. Its all on the geared style for almost precise micro adjustments.

For once, the date is on the 9 o'clock side of things. At SGD 1,800.00, this is the most affordable professional watch yet.

Seiko Marinemaster 300m SBDX001
14.6mm thick

In the main Seiko line, not talking about grand Seiko, this watch has to be the prodigal son in Seiko's line up, There are more costly models such as the Emperor Tuna but this watch really stands out.

The watch case is not so much as thick as others, the thickness is also greatly contributed by the bezel height. This watch, by all means is a fine watch. It is near perfect. But the mono-casing makes it hard to get serviced. The watch has hardlex which I do not know why like many people. The movement is said to be a unfinished spring drive movement similar to Grand Seikos or based off of it, which claims to have lesser error in a year than most renowned movements in 2 months.

Again, due to white supremacy, even if Seiko and Orient is even more in-house manufactured than Rolex (Seiko makes it own lube oil). And even the asian watches have lasted longer than rolexes without servicing, the price of a Deep Sea Dweller can buy both the MM300 and OS300 with plenty of change to pay for the events to wear the two watches.

Something.


There is peculiar bunch with extreme domed cases that is just too weird for me, it looks like a marble crashed into my watch.
What in the hell is this for a desk diver?

Long post.

diving bad

I'm gonna go diving in a day or two, over this weekend at tioman, who all would have known have had a mishappening over the last week, 2 singaporean divers drowned during. It was unfortunate and reminds me to be cautious of what I do, even the most professional of divers can get into an accident. Better be safe than sorry.

On the lighter note of things, I get to strap a watch and dive! And choosing the watches is a chore many watch lovers can relate.

dive ratings

From wikipedia:

The standards and features for diver's watches are regulated by the International Organization for Standardization in the ISO 6425standard. Besides water resistance standards to a minimum of 100 m depth rating ISO 6425 also provides minimum requirements for mechanical diver's watches (quartz and digital watches have slightly differing readability requirements) such as:[16]
  • The presence of a unidirectional bezel with at least at every 5 minutes elapsed minute markings and a pre-select marker to mark a specific minute marking.
  • The presence of clearly distinguishable minute markings on the watch face.
  • Adequate readability/visibility at 25 cm (9.8 in) in total darkness.
  • The presence of an indication that the watch is running in total darkness. This is usually indicated by a running second hand with a luminous tip or tail.
  • Magnetic resistance. This is tested by 3 expositions to a direct current magnetic field of 4,800 A/m. The watch must keep its accuracy to ± 30 seconds/day as measured before the test despite the magnetic field.
  • Shock resistance. This is tested by two shocks (one on the 9 o'clock side, and one to the crystal and perpendicular to the face). The shock is usually delivered by a hard plastic hammer mounted as a pendulum, so as to deliver a measured amount of energy, specifically, a 3 kg hammer with an impact velocity of 4.43 m/s. The change in rate allowed is ± 60 seconds/day.
  • Chemical resistance. This is tested by immersion in a 30 g/l NaCl solution for 24 hours to test its rust resistance. This test water solution has a salinity comparable to normal seawater.
  • Strap/band solidity. This is tested by applying a force of 200 N (45 lbf) to each spring bar (or attaching point) in opposite directions with no damage to the watch or attachment point.
  • The presence of an End Of Life (EOL) indicator on battery powered watches.
Testing diving watches for ISO 6425 compliance is voluntary and involves costs, so not every manufacturer present their watches for certification according to this standard.

this is the 'rule' for dive watches.

But online 'rates' the activities for these watches:
< 30  meters - no touching of do not get it wet, not even sweat
30 meters - sweat, light amount of handwashing/shampooing, under light drizzling rain
50 meters - heavy rain, shower
100 meters - swimming, less than 2m snorkelling
150 meters - swimming fast, shallow depths diving like 5m, dipping ur hand in the sea on a travelling speedboat
200 meters - proper dive watch but no one dives below 50m normally.

the depth goes crazy till about 3000m! like if there is such a deep ocean, if u are at that wretched depth below, will you look at the time?

People even think that movement under water will create pressures that flood watches, that is all bunch of hokum.

Been watching nothing but breaking bad for awhile now.

"I am not in danger, Skyler. I AM the danger! A guy opens his door and gets shot and you think that of me? No. I am the one who knocks!"
- W.W.

WAIWT

Today I wore an old buddy of mine.

Too bad it was raining..but even if it is rated to as-good-as-zero water resistance, I wore it anyway.

It was sunny when I left house though.


Really digging the strap, hoping to file off the sides this weekend. $10 strap!