Paint It Black (the story)

I'm long winded, so there is a long backstory prior to getting the actual watch. But do not worry, the watch review is longer than the story for sure. Will be posting the story first.

When I used this statement in a facebook comment. Many people did not know I was quoting the famous philosopher, Mick Jagger, his band and the famous song holding this verse (my other passion is rock n roll)

I think it is important for everyone to have hear this song at least once in their life
Go to youtube.com search for Paint It Black by Rolling Stones

I have previously blogged about this local (Singapore) watch company, Gruppo Gamma. This company has released various other models since that time I blogged about it.

Current & New Models

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Genesis D-Day
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Genesis Vintage
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Genesis II Base
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Ascent II Supernova
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Ascent II California

Discontinued Models

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Genesis Classic
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Genesis California
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Ascent Military
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Ascent Classic
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Ascent California


Their brass series was unique and special, a watch dealer (check out fantasywatch4u on facebook) from Malaysia told me that the green dialed offerings are popular because green was the colour of money.

What else I liked about this brand's offering is that they make 44mm fiddy cases in mirror polish finish. I think this is something panerai don't really have, nor typical homage watch makers. Uniqueness plus points

They offered a few limited editions along with their regular offerings, tagging the letter L behind them to indicate which I cannot take time to slowly list out, perhaps you could check out the full watch lists from the owners.
(click on "previously blogged" to see the entry and "Gruppo Gamma" to direct link the brand's own webpage)

This company still remains small-staffed and low production volume, not as a marketing ploy but to ensure they can cope with aftersales services. Another thing that remains unique to this company is the value for money products. The watches/straps/packaging pouch are high quality, no frills, no bling (except for the polished finishing).

Here's the quick low down of how this watch finally made it to me.
a) Watch design was selected after owners and brand owner discussed over the GGOC (Gruppo Gamma Owners Club, our own ggristi if you will, but no "brand hate" and congregation.) Although the company makes the final decision, many input came from the members of the owners club.

b) Watch was offered at a release of 100 pieces and no more, no out-of-range funny business going on, maybe except for prototype models and rejected and the brand owner's own pieces (if any of them exists, I do not know, but as far as release to consumers, only 100 piece.)

c) Was is slated (pun intended) for March shipment.

d) Watch case coating had some errors on the back end, causing Naoki, the brand owner (correct me if I'm wrong on this post if you are reading this Naoki) to vomit blood, having to visit the production line personally overseas to rectify this issue. This delayed the release of this watch to end April.

e) Was beating myself with a stick everyday to curb my enthusiasm about the release of this watch.

f) Was invited to a tiny and historic first official getogether (or GTG) to collect this watch and also was treated to a lovely tiramisu cake and beverage (I had tea).

All in all, thats what I recalled, the discussion about this watch was long and never ending, but the key point was being released in a batch of 100 was part of what made this such a unique watch to many potential and unfortunately-want-it-but-did-not-manage-to-make-it-to-the-list people.

Here is some shots of the watch (less than 24 hours of ownership):


Meteor landing

 the work Patterson did as a graduate under his adviser Harrison Brown to provide an accurate count of lead in zircon particles from Meteor Crater, and to work with similar results being collected by George Tilton on uranium counts; with the established half-life of uranium's radioactive decay to lead, this would be used to estimate the age of the Earth.

This is how I think the story of this watch came to be. Other brands use sunken boat steel or homogeneous floor tile materials to make, but my fantasy was that this watch fell from the sky. (Please note that what this is, is not facts, but my made up fantasy and complete satire, so it cannot be used in court against me because I've typed it out here that you can't. Seriously, I do not study law, I don't know if you can or cannot, but please don't.)

As I was saying (satirically, stop thinking about law), that meteor crashed onto earth, broke into 100 pieces or so worth of small blocks.

This watch was released after going through a long and arduous journey, especially for the owners of Gruppo Gamma Watch Company. This watch was released for pre-order at 100 pieces only. (To my understanding the brand is very firm on its production numbers and will not allow any out of range pieces to be released)

My piece is #015. (I saw 14 and 89 was taken, so no special numbers remains for me and I just took which ever number available)
stock photos

collection day photo

The watch's finishing and pencil lead coloured PVD coating is amazing.
Quick specifications of this watch:
Pencil-lead/slate/gun-metal grey coated stainless steel casing and buckle and buckle tongue (thats what I call it).
Sapphire crystal (suspect there is AR coating on the underside)
Solid case back with the company logo engraved
200m water resistant
Suede like brown strap about 4mm - 5mm thick.

I'm going to just look at my watch now. Will be posting a full review some days from now.

Justification

I love homage watches, I gives the everyday people like us an option to own timepieces that we are able to buy with our salaries yet not be a blatant replica of certain watches although the line between homages and replicas is often breached. People have to justify themselves to get. 

the most homaged/copied/replicated watch of all time

To some people, homages can be good tributes that removes the name, but to me, its just like the blues music. Where artistes will do covers of each other songs. Perhaps making it abit different to suit their musical direction. For instance, my favourite band of all time is Led Zeppelin who are gods of rock and roll. But they do plenty of covers and rip offs too. But I couldn't give a rat's ass about it, no doubt travelling riverside blues is a great song by Robert Johnson, but when Zep did it, my god! (which is them), it sounded so much different, the song gets you to move and tap your feet. 

Moving back to time, watches that we have come to love are one of the most inaccessible watches to the commoners like myself. To name a few of the watches I really like:
- 6152/1 Marina Militare Luminor - This thing is like heritage grade article to be worn on the wrist, so is its price
- Rolex Military Submariner (milsub) - about close to half a million
- Rolex Daytona  6263 - Record breaking $1.1 million dollars price hammered at auction
- Blancpain Fifty-fathoms - old onces are hard to find, new ones costs $11,000.
- Omega Speedmaster vintage - actually the most affordable of the lot, but I do not predict much wrist time to want it that much, just like it for being so god damn beautiful

Amongst these watches, apart from being unable to afford it even if I work for 100 years, the other issues being my small wrist size for the luminor's 47mm.

Also these watches are really old and made with available technology at that time, which quite honestly, is dubious at best. They still do not allow 30m WR watches to touch water now, I do not believe they can do it back then.
this is my one piece

Notice I didn't mentioned Panerai earlier when I'm saying "6152/1 Marina Militare Luminor"?

It is just a homage afterall. To the non-WIS, myself including, many may think that only the original Officine Panerai is the de facto maker of Marina Militare. They are so wrong. Looking at the dial above, you see that the words Panerai was not on the dial. Because long story of 80 years short, Panerai makes Marina Militare homage watches from back in the days.

I do not know the details but just know this, Rolex made or contributed greatly to this watch. Which is why the RXW MM20 by Ken Trading is so coveted. Many consider this watch to be closer to the real MM (its a chore to type out the full name) 6152/1 than Panerai itself. 

Not only that, MM20 predates fan favourite Pam 127.

Before y'all Paneristis start to swear at the blasphemy they seem to be reading, I want to let it be known that Panerai is my favourite watch brand to date. They are just good at what they do except for their pricing and intentional limited supply to jack the pricing even further. Of all the watches I have come to learn about, Panerai still remains at the top of the list of my grails.

My point is, after learning this piece of history, it seems to me that 1950 case or Fiddy case watches is a free-for-all market to get, be it MM20 or Pam 127, 372. 

If I really want something that speaks Panerai through and through, I would get either a Radiomir or the Pam 000.
Pam 000

As for the Marina Militare, either I get a windfall (but people born in year of the Snake, do not typically do well in year of the horse, Chinese will get the reference), I can only afford a MM20 and I hope that I can overlook the fact that my hands are so bloody tiny.

My missing-ness

My dear readers,

I'm aware that I'm missing in action for a-long-while now. Nothing has been going up in my horological pursuits, except for one thing: GGOC L.E. PVD


This watch is from, as per my previous posting, this beloved local (Singapore) company called Gruppo Gamma Pte Ltd.

The thing about start ups is their willingness to listen to what the general customers wants of their watches. Hence after the contributions of the other members, they have launched another watch in as part of their limited edition models. This time, the stark difference is that this watch is PVD coated.

The specs as follows:
Case
  • 316L stainless steel, PVD
  • Diameter 44 mm
  • Thickness 16.0 mm
  • Weight 140 g
  • Screw-in crown, etched 'Brevet'
  • Water resistance 20 ATM
Caseback
  • 316L stainless steel, brushed
  • Signed & individually numbered
Crystal
  • Sapphire crystal
  • Single dome
Movement
  • Seagull Grade 1 TY2555
  • Self-winding
  • Hours, minutes, seconds
  • Incabloc shock protection
  • 21600 bph
  • Power reserve 45 h
  • 30 jewels
  • Pearlage decoration
Dial
  • Sandwich dial, black
  • Vintage/ white superlume
Hands
  • Black color
  • Vintage/ white superlume
Strap
  • Originale series, brown
  • Length 120 x 80 mm
  • Width 24 x 24 mm
  • Thickness 4.5 mm, unpadded
  • Raw edges
Buckle
  • 316L stainless steel, PVD
  • Size 24 mm
  • Signed Gruppo Gamma

This watch currently is in its pre-production phrase expected delivery about Mar 2014.

The thing is, although I love homage watches, they do not have the specs to keep up with my carelessness and tendency to shower with the watch. Which is why, I prefer a watch that can really handle its shit and not get condensation.

Plus, I've been contemplating for awhile to get a black case watch.

Alligated Monster

Been a long time...

I was busy away in my world..my watches, my love, my stuff

Went to HK over the weekend and was busy handing over my stuff from work. The line of business I work in is Shipping, but more often than not, I find myself in the take-it-up-the-arse business.

Anyways a few things happened and wanted show it.
I went to hong kong for a vacation with my family (its been awhile since I've travelled with them). It was a disaster but it did bring the 3 of us closer.

We started out in Zhuhai and Macau as well too. Whats impressive is that there is a cantonese restaurant in Zhuhai on a boat. The place is called de yue fang, the food is quite affordable and very tasty for the price compared to Singapore.



My companion for the entire trip is my trust Seiko Black Monster. For this trip, we will be walking alot, so I got some new crocs.


Ok fine, the poor in me couldn't allow a genuine croc leather, this here is a embossed one from Paros (I swear on many things that at the time of writing this post, I still am not affiliated to Paros in anyway)

I got this from old Mr Goh for $10 a piece. I got the 24mm and notch of the corners to fit a 20mm, results = great success!!

I didn't have time to let the strap get worn it or what, I just changed it out, punched a hole and left the country with it. Something I do not usually do as I'm anal towards minor sharp edges of the straps. Even the smallest prick must be snipped of, usually with nail clippers.

Thankfully, the strap was a comfort to wear and the thickness is just nice to allow the watch to grip on without being too tight and allows breathing of the wrists, hardly have to take it out to cool off once in awhile.

Up next, went to Hong Kong, blah blah, this is not a travel blog, but there are a few notable pictures captured that is a keeper.

Above: Taken from Ave of the Stars in Hong Kong, similar to Hollywood's with the celebrities palm prints and all if they are still alive.


Gold cast

Above: Taken at Sheung Wan at 8 AM after a dim sum breakfast at one of the oldest tea houses in HK, Lin Heung Tea House. No editing at all.

Butchered.


The interesting mix of modern and traditional architecture found at Wong Tai Sin temple.  


Dog were inhabitants of the grounds of the big buddha in Lantau Island, this is so heart-warming to watch.

Headshot

Portrait

Angled shot

This watch is great for travels as it is big, tough and all. Yet it isn't to flashy like a rolex/panerai. The lume is seriously helpful in dark places. Wish there was a watch that has the same features of this monster here except changes to the looks.

- Lumi-brite/C3 grade lume applied even on the second hand
- Lume dot on bezel if not full lumed bezel
- Day/date
- Automatic workhorse movements preferred, although quartz is fine
- Thick, tall, hefty


Moving second hand

To me a second hand is a complication Becos:
1) it is not part of the time, we usually tell time in hours and minutes only
2) it helps ppl determine the accuracy of their movements
3) it is an indication that the watch is running
4) it never stops and just ticks away

Add me on instagram: moving2nd

daylight

Lume shots in the bright room is an immense obsession I have.



Busy tired week. But always time for watching watches.

Beauté

Things hanging on our wrists that all guys strive for.

Sexy lume

Just so happen to snap a lume shot and found it at 10:10 position.

Speaking of sexy...
an angel trying out a knitted top

local cuisine

It's rare to have locals dipping into watchmaking and selling watches of such specific tastes. I love local entrepreneurship that services niche markets of my interests and hobby.

This is not a review as there is no product per se, as such, the post is abit disorganised. Its just a noticing of a watch company.

enter Gruppo Gamma.

This is a watch company, microbrand I suppose they are, that makes homages of Panerai's radiomir 1940 or the crownguard-less 1950 luminors. Gruppo Gamma is the top secret italian naval divers that originally used early Panerai models. It meant frogman group or something, this name is a love or hate, but I think it is a good conversation topic.

When other watch forums were discussing this watch, the immediate response is that, the name is stupid to pronounce. Until someone came along and explained the meaning of gruppo gamma then people started to accept it. How shallow is that? Its like dangling any fried food in front of children is useless without mentioning the word "Macdonald".

Come about
Panerai Radiomir 1940. from web

The company makes homage watches of 1940s Radiomir as seen above. They have some good features which I will get to, but the thing about them that impresses me the most is their interaction with people, their passion which can be felt in the way their product is delivered. One thing I learnt in during school days as my lecturer explained the main reason for apple's success. Its not the functions and the features nor is it the looks and material and what not. Apple is not selling the product, it simply makes you believe in what they believe, the product is merely the medium.

Looking at Gruppo Gamma, it makes me feel that, the company, started because a bunch of people says, "hey, surely, there will be alot of people who wants to buy this watch. Lets fulfill their wishes." And the affordability is just the cherry on top of the whip cream. 

This seems like their MO: providing a modern interpretation of a historically legendary time piece for people who love such watches.

Their company sticks to certain things they say, the respect exclusivity and promises to customers. Their customer service seems to be top notched, not afraid of complains made public as they stand by their products.

That is belief.

Watch
Their watches for now comes in 2 types of case materials: Stainless steel (Genesis) and Brass (Ascent). 
Their standard offering Genesis model. Their debut model is G-0. 
G-0 will never ever ever be in production again

It is the base model of which all of its other offerings will pivot against. Now the G-0 is not available anymore, it's launched with only 10 pieces and that's that. 

Now the current models being offered or temporarily ceasing production for newer models.

Features the watch has in common
44mm Cushion case (Genesis 316 S Steel, Ascent Brass)
Brevet etched crown
Brevettato signed edge and see-thru case back, some models are serialised
Domed mineral crystal
Sandwich dial be it cali dial or normal dial
Seagull movement (auto has date)
Matching finished buckles with brand

There is many more tiny tweaks made that sets them apart from regular homages. I, being a owner of 2 homages, I feel that the cases these guys (Getat and Jackson) use, is from a similar source, there is no tweaks or what to the case, they look and feel almost the same.

Here's what sets GG apart, they made tiny unnoticeable changes to improve the ergonomics of the watch, a higher positioned crown to avoid it digging into the wrist, small stealthy date windows on automatic function as opposed to other watch brands using cyclops to enlarge. The curvature of the lug and the size is more palatable to the general population.

They offer brass watches under the ascent line up, which is good at least they do not pass up brass as bronze unlike some manufacturers outside. But from what I gather, probably due to it's freshness, it isn't picking up yet. For me, bronze is not my thing. I think that it is too malleable a material that would react very well against knocks and bumps and lastly, I do not see what the fuss is all the patina thing about, I for one, do not like to touch oxidised metals.

Packaging
Each watch comes with a pouch that is seemingly useful.

Straps
Another cool feature that I like you can choose from several high quality straps such as this one in Tan colour, this watch fits 24mm straps.
Also available in brown and black too.

They have a collaboration with other strap maker, 74 watch strap, as their premium strap offering, so if you get the watch you can spend abit more to get the premium strap and it will be cheaper than getting one seperately. Straps seems really nice in my opionion and not that particularly expensive when we have people peddling straps around S$150 - S$200 (not dissing their quality, its price not for everyone).
"stagionato 74"

The highest end strap offered, looks really nice and has the good aging of leather without the wear marks, which is think is stupid when you buy anything with worn marks as you are going to have 2 marks, a fake one and your actual worn mark.

Nonetheless, part of the owning experience is the endless possibility of strap options. These bad boys will be leashed on with plenty of leathery goodness.

Lume
Another draw factor to this watch is the lume. Each of the models will have either C1 or C3 lume, gold hands will have C1 lume and silver hands will have C3 lume.

Lume, to me, is part of the quality assurance of the watch, a watch with good lume usually has the better QC. I kinda read time in the dark, so it is important and part of the heritage as lume is one of the main key features tool watches have over dress watch.

G-5
Currently aiming this model
G-5

The G-5 is special because this is has 'the next step' thinking, as with most of their designs. Its Iron Man's extremis or bleeding edge armour equivalent. It retains classic stuff like the polished case, something which I've been wanting to own, a polished steel case instead of a brushed one. Looks aside, it is powered by an automatic movement and a date window.

One thing I like about what they have to say in their journal about their micro sized date window.

"We designed the G-5 for people who use the date function only occasionally. 

In other words, if we're looking for a watch that tells the date when it really has to but otherwise is stylishly discreet about its date function, the G-5 is THE WATCH to have. "

Whilst other are complaining about the date being there or too small, they decided to go ahead and do both. I feel that its a bold move, but it seems to come up looking good and the explanation is very valid, at least for me. I have never tried it before as no one has done it or have I seen it in that manner. I am willing to try it out and it might work.

The new batch of G-5 will also be serialised individually, which 50 years down the road, the unserialised ones maybe very expensive as they are the pioneer batch.

The current delivery date for G-5 is Nov, so when I get the watch, will give it a review, and if things are good, why not get their genesis II series? G-2 looks good. Gold hands.